Pokemon GO cheat sheet!

Hello!! I had so much fun on the podcast and hopefully you had fun listening to it! Anyway, I had all this written out for the show but not a lot of this got out, time constraints and all. SO! If you want to up your GO game, check this all out! It goes over the basics, but then tells you how to use those to your advantage! HA! So here it is PUCLpeeps!
Catching ‘em all

Catching:
Throwing the ball inside the shrinking circle increases your chances of catching that Pokémon. As the circle gets smaller you can get “Nice”, “Great”, or “Excellent” for an increase in exp after the poke is caught. It’s said that throwing the ball when the circle is at it’s smallest increases your chance of catching that pokemon, but for me it’s difficult to get the “Great” mark, and impossible to hit the “Excellect” mark. So for me there is no real reason to try to get the bonus, as losing balls trying to hit the small circle is not worth it to me. There are 3 different colors the circles are; green, yellow, and red. These colors indicate how hard it is to catch these pokemon. At level 12 you gain access to greatballs, and ultra balls unlock at level 20! The trainer level cap in the game was much smaller in the Beta than what it currently stands at, which is 50! So there is a lot of work we all have to do if we want to become the best there ever was!

Tracking:
First off, you gotta be in the right area to catch more than a couple. I recommend a strip mall, park, historic site, or another high-traffic area (anywhere people are usually around). For me, there is a strip of historic buildings (fancy way of saying they’re just old buildings with shops in them) and that’s the best that’s closest to me. Around that 3 block radius is 10 poke stops and 3 gyms. Find your hunting grounds, and visit often. In the bottom left of your screen you can see what pokes are around you. If you select it, it will grow larger and show all that are within 1-3 pokemon tracks from you. These little pokemon tracks are multiples of 60 meters, there are no other readily available ways to tell which direction to go, so if there is a poke with one track below it, then it’s within a 60 meter radius from where you are standing. The tracks then decrease, or increase from 1-3 depending on the afore mentioned multiples of 60. Besides the feet ticking down or up after walking 60 meters in a direction there is no direct way to know if you’re getting closer. The distance in pokemon tracks are as follows; zero tracks means the pokemon is within 0-59 meters from you, one track means 60-119, two tracks means 120-159, and three means 160-200. 200 meters is the cut-off of them not registering near your location.

There is a trick that will make tracking easier though.
If there are other pokemon around you and you have selected the part of the screen I mentioned earlier, the pokes appear in order from closest to farthest, and not just in 60 meter intervals either. As you move, they will shift back and forth from closest to farthest while you walk. This is extremely helpful and will give you a much better chance of finding what you’re looking for quickly, and without walking in 200 meter circles.

Leveling/evolving:

First off, I would recommend never wasting candies on powering up anything less than a final evolution poke. I know that’s a bummer, but in the beginning you will be levelling up so fast ((therefore gaining access to higher CP pokes)) that your little 10cp squirtle is going to rapidly become useless.

Evolving: Most of you know the candies are how you evolve pokemon. For a typical 3 part evolution it’s 25 to get to second stage, and 100 to get to the third. For a typical 2 part evolution it’s 50. A notable exception are evees, which cost 25 candies to evolve ((I believe this is because what eveelution you get is completely random)). The cost of powering up a pokemon increases as their cp does, in stardust first, and then in candies. It only costs candy to evolve however, and I would recommend saving your stardust until you have a final evolution poke. When you evolve a pokemon, evolve the highest CP one you have, that way when it gets the evolution boost to its CP, the boost is much higher, and it will save you stardust and candies when you go to power it up. What I’ve done is favorited (select the hollow star on the top right after you’ve brought up the pokemon) each new poke I come across. When I get another of the same evolution line I transfer the one with lower CP. If I have middle evolution, I send away the first evolution.

Here’s another helpful tip, evolve every pidgey, weedle, and caterpie you can. Why? Because it only costs 12 candies, and you get 500exp for doing so!! For 50 candies you could evolve a kakuna into a beedrill and get 1,500 exp, but 12×4 is 48, and 500 xD is 2,000, meaning for less candies, you can get more exp!! and all of that DOUBLES if you evolve then all with a lucky egg. 4,000exp with only 48 weedle candies!?! Inconceivable!!!

 

Pokestops:

These are the best! They give you eggs that hatch into pokemon if you’re lucky! They’re also the only way to get great items you can’t buy from the store, like greatballs, ultraballs (once they’re unlocked), razz berries (these, like in the safari zones make pokemon more likely to stick around, extremely useful for catching pokemon way to high level for you to have any business owning at that point), as well as items you can buy at the store.

 

Hatching:

This mechanic is cool to me as you actually do the walking to hatch your eggs. There are 3 types, 2km (which is roughly 1 mile), 5km (roughly 3 miles), and 10 km(roughly 6 miles). The length correlates to rarity and how many candies you will get. For instance, my first egg I hatched was a 2km egg, and it was a weedle with 10 candies and high CP. Pretty much a total letdown as far as I’m concerned. But during the beta there was a lot of people getting Dratinis with the 10km eggs that hatched with 25 candies, just enough to evolve it straight away into a Dragonair. One more note, hatched pokemon will have a higher CP than caught pokemon (Unless you have powered them up), so don’t rush to transfer your weedle because you already have 30 of the little suckers. If you evolve that one, your previous beedrill’s CP will look like a joke.  Also, and this is important, the game will not register anything over 5mph towards hatching. So dust off your TRECK, REDLINE, or tricycle and peddle those miles away!

 

Gyms:

This is my favorite part, and what the PUCLmmunity will dominate as Team Yellow!! So, there are 2 status’ as a gym, owned and unowned. An owned gym will have the color of the team that owns it and you can battle a rival teams gym and claim it, or if it’s your team and there’s enough spots, you can add one of your pokes to strengthen it! Every 24 hours you can collect a bonus of stardust, gold, and exp for holding a gym. For every gym you hold you get something like 500 stardust, 100 exp an I think… 10 gold? I’m only positive on the stardust payout because it’s the best part. Keep in mind as well that there is a cap to the amount of bonuses you can get for gyms which is 10. So, you can get a maximum of 5,000 stardust; 1,000 exp and 100 gold (good for 20 pokeballs in the shop).
Now here’s a pro-tip.

You can only collect this bonus once every 24 hours, but, you don’t have to hold your gyms for 24 hours. This is awesome, so let me try to explain this accurately. Basically, once it says you’re ready to collect, that’s when you should defeat as many gyms as possible as quickly as possible, THEN collect your reward. This reduces the chances of you losing a gym before you collect, and with the free stardust bonus, you can get your pokes ready to take them over again the next day. Currently, I retake the same gyms every day after work and when I get home, collect my bonus. Also, the bonus is in a weird spot, you have to go into the shop, and in the top right is a shield graphic with a number representing your owned gyms in the middle. There is also either a timer, letting you know how long until your next bonus, or the word “Collect” telling you you’re eligible to get the bonuses for gyms.

 

Battling:

Swipe left or right to dodge, and tap your pokemon to do it’s quick attack until the bar or bars below your poke’s name are full, then hold down and do your power attack! I personally enjoy this battle style. It takes a little getting used to, but it’s closer visually to how pokemon fight in the show.

 

Server Issues:

Until they start to get fixed, I wouldn’t recommend using lucky eggs or incense. These two items are extremely useful, but they are only active for 30minutes real-time, not in-app time, so if the app crashes and you can’t get back in until after 30min, you just lost one L It’s a sad fact of life right now and I would recommend that if you CAN, hold off until nighttime or until they say they’ve fixed the server issues.

 

WHELP, that’s pretty much all my knowledge. Let’s make Yellow the best team ever! PUCL OHANA!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ohana means family, and family means no PUCLonian gets left behind. #TeamYellowFTW

 

This is from the first article I put up regaurding the fastest way to level up early, just in case you missed it!

So there is a GIANT secret to leveling up fast that I guarantee many players will miss during their first few hours of playing. The worst part about that is, those first couple hours are the most crucial!!!

 

Here’s why:
When you catch a pokemon for the first time in your dex, your trainer gets 500 exp, for this example we will use weedle. After you catch your first weedle you are awarded 500 exp for the new addition to your dex. If you catch a second weedle, you only get 100. Each entry into the pokedex gives you 500 exp and only 100 for consequent pokemon with the same dex number. This means you get 500 for weedle, 500 for kakuna, and 500 for beedrill. The reason why the beginning is so crutial is because of an item called “Lucky Eggs”. This item doubles the amount of experience you get from catching a pokemon, making every first pokedex entry worth 1000 exp!!! So far, your level directly correlates to the exp you need to level up x1000. So, if you are level 1, you only need to catch two pokemon if you have the egg active to level up to level two, 3 new pokemon to reach level 3, ect. Your trainer’s level directly correlates to the CP ((or “Combat Power”)) meaning the pokemon you catch will have higher CP depending on how high your trainer level is. After around lvl 7-10 you’ve caught every common pokemon. Keep this in mind, you don’t unlock access to great balls until lvl 12!! So is it starting to make sense why your levelling up quickly is the best thing you can do early?

Now, here’s the not so happy part. In order to get a good jump early ((which is a huge, huge, huge help)) you will have to spend money. I would not recommend going over 20 dollars though as all you need are Pokeballs and Lucky Eggs from the shop to get this huge jump ahead. I would recommend buying the 3rd option for lucky eggs ((25)), and then the largest amount of pokeballs you can after that ((I think it’s 300)). This will ensure the largest pay-out for the flood of unregistered pokemon you will get at the beginning of the game. I have played for probably a total of 2 hrs today and have reached lvl 8 using this method. Below is the math that should make it much clearer than this:

With Lucky Eggs:
Player Name: Basket747
Team: Yellow

Lvl: 8 (Total exp: 28,500), (caught 28 pokemon @1000 exp each, starter @500 exp)
Pokemon caught: 29/150

 

Without Lucky Eggs:
Player Name: Basket747
Team: Yellow

Lvl: 5 (Total exp: 16,500), (caught 29 pokemon)
Pokemon caught: 29/150

If I had not used the Lucky Eggs at all, I would be down to lvl 5 and have missed 16,000 exp points!!!

Now, you can play the game without this boost and you may want to, it’s just going to be a huge setback. BUT! By no means do you need to do this, and past lvl 10 it won’t be worth it anymore to buy Lucky Eggs, it’s just a leg up I wanted to share with the PUCLmmunity. Have fun, AND CATCH ‘EM ALL!!!
Toodle-oo from everyone’s favorite wicker bassinet,

 

-Basket